Bull castration, mountain bikers and other joys of returning to the Star City

Star-topped Mill Mountain in the distance

My  first solo mountain bike on one of my favorite paths: I’m less than a quarter-mile up the Monument Trail when I nearly slam into him. Actually, I hear his rattletrap bike long before I see him. His brakes are squealing from several bends away, like the sound of Norfolk-Southern rail cars screaming to a stop.

He’s not your typical mountain biker. He is helmet-less with baggy gym shorts, a T-shirt and Malcolm X glasses.On his feet are black dress socks and blue Reebok flip-flops, the kind soccer players wear when they’re off the field. I pull over so he can ride past me, but he stops and gives me a friendly stare.

We’re near the edge of this Mill Mountain trail, Frisbee-throwing distance from residential traffic, when the stranger asks: “If I keep going, will I end up in Roanoke?”

I assure him he will. He thanks me and white-knuckles it down the trail.  I’m half weirded out, half wondering if my imagination has just conjured him up.  I turn to make sure he’s really gone.

Home again, home again, jiggity jog (and Tom, bless him, did DMV duty).

If I keep going, will I end up in Roanoke? It’s a question a lot of people have asked me lately. It’s been exactly a year since we left this small Southern city for the bustling (and R-less) Beantown, the land of crazy drivers, fabulous grocery stores and genuinely big news. We’ve been back for nearly two months now, and some people want to know: How was your year at Harvard? Are you glad to be back?

I’m never sure what to say. The first question is a no-brainer: My year at Harvard was amazing. I was paid — for the first and only time in my life, I’m sure — NOT to work.

But no one really wants to hear that, and I get it. I really do. They’re more likely to want to hear how awful it is leaving it behind. I get that too.

Will I ever again know this many people willing to help me move?

I know of one former Nieman who cried at her desk her entire first week back on the job. Another told me his readers picked apart everything he wrote  — either he was trying too hard to sound high-and-mighty Harvard, they complained, or he was not sounding Harvard enough. Yet another told me she returned to her paper with renewed rigor— but, honestly, she seemed depressed. An international fellow from 2009,  she kept referring to our class as “the robbers” and said it was too painful to re-enter Lippman House.

No wonder they brought in counselors to talk to us about re-entry.

I’ll admit, there were days when I worried that returning to the same job I’ve had for 21 years would feel like a step backward. And then I actually stepped back into the old job, occupying the same old dusty desk , with the same old desk lamp (sorry, Rex; I had it first) and even the same telephone number.

I checked in with my editor and then I did what I always do when I want to find a story so good I can get lost in it: I promptly left.

I don’t care how many meetings you sit in, or how much computer-assisted research you say you’re doing, or how much office face time is politically wise. This is one of my story idea mantras: There are no good stories in the newsroom.

My first story back ran Saturday. Found it at a gas station when I ran into a trusted source and old friend who runs a Mexican store. He’d already pitched it to a younger colleague, who confessed he hadn’t known where to begin. I began it with this question: Are Hispanics really being rounded up and deported from our region and what happens to the families that are left behind?

My second story also ran Saturday. As someone with the so-called families beat, I got a tip about a story that explored the very definition of family. A relative of the source had recently passed away, and his same-sex partner opened up their rural Franklin County newspaper — only to find that the editors didn’t consider a gay partner family enough to list among the survivors.

I drove deep into the country to meet Chris Nichols — past two Bojangles, past the trailer parks, past the tanning/hair/movie-rental salons. He showed me the kidney-shaped swimming pool that he and his beloved had recently built, complete with a sign, “Welcome to Paradise,” and Key West colors inside the trim house. He showed me the cross necklace the nurse handed him moments after the doctor pronounced his partner of 23 years dead; and the note he later found tucked behind some bills he’d been about to mail — expressing that it wasn’t enough just to call yourself a Christian, you also had to express it in deeds.

I found my next story through my stomach, having become addicted to the  bread sold at a nearby farmer’s market before I knew anything about the hands that baked it. I still don’t understand what spelt is, but I’m grateful to have gotten to know Ginger Hillery, a recently widowed farmer and baker who raises five wonderfully quirky kids and runs a church under a willow tree next to her barn. I hope I’ll know her for a good, long time. She’s spiritually advanced, funny and — it might seem like I’m piling on praise here, but admit it, this is impressive: She castrates her own bulls.

“The definition of grace is unmerited favor,” she told me, explaining how she’s managed to keep the farm and the family going in the face of her huge, monolithic grief.

Will I end up in Roanoke? Perhaps the better question is: Will I be blessed to keep meeting unexpected people around the next delicious bend? Will I get to keep writing stories that otherwise would not find their way into anyone else’s definition of a traditional newspaper beat?

And why didn’t I ask that guy on the falling-apart mountain bike: What’s your name, and where on earth have you been?

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12 Comments

  1. Having long been an admiring fan, I was delighted to see your work across the weekend editions. Your stories on the guy in Franklin Co., and the other on Ginger Hillery, whom I know, were nothing short of amazing. You did not lose your touch and you dove into your work with all guns blazing (a messy metaphor, but nevermind). I congratulate you and welcome you back to town!

    Reply
    • bethmacy

       /  August 18, 2010

      Many many thanks, Anita. You have always been so kind and supportive.

      Reply
  2. Love, love, love this. Welcome home, Macy.

    Reply
    • bethmacy

       /  August 18, 2010

      Hey, favorite secret editor: how the heck are you?
      Did you see my friend Alysia Abbott’s essay link on FB to babble.com?? Must be a great web site because you’re BOTH on there!
      send me any other new links you have. . . oh, and when does your book come out?

      Reply
  3. beatriz oropeza

     /  August 17, 2010

    Thanks Chica, I read you and I feel you’re just around the corner.

    Reply
    • bethmacy

       /  August 18, 2010

      I wish I were right around the corner from you so we could have coffee (or dark hot chocolate from that decadent Brattle Street place!)
      Come see us, Chica! I promise we’ll show you a good time — and besides, I do believe we accidentally(!) ended up with some of Boris’s rum — which we guiltily must share with you!

      Reply
  4. I sank into my weekend papers (though not until Monday) with the utter delight that is three long, lazy cups of coffee with a too-long-gone friend. It’s wonderful to have you back!!

    Reply
    • bethmacy

       /  August 18, 2010

      Awwww, thanks Amy! Can’t wait to see you in person and not just computer screens.

      Reply
  5. Jeanne

     /  August 18, 2010

    Then it is by grace that you call Roanoke your home.

    Reply
    • bethmacy

       /  August 18, 2010

      And by grace that I get to know people like you, Jeanne! Great running into you, and I hope to join you guys on a kayak trip soon!

      Reply
  6. Lana Whited

     /  August 18, 2010

    The answer to the questions in the next-to-last graph is “if we’re lucky.” (I’m happy to have shown up in a Beth Macy story so soon after your return.)

    Reply
    • bethmacy

       /  August 18, 2010

      awww, thanks lana. and i’m happy to have had your usual thoughtful insights.

      Reply

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  • Advance praise for “Factory Man”:

    "Beth Macy's extraordinary reporting and narrative skills, and her deep affection for the people of the rural Blue Ridge Mountain region, come together in a compelling story about a gritty Virginia furniture maker who refuses to allow his family's company and its workers to become victims of globalization." — J. Anthony Lukas Work-in-Progress citation
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    This is Ms. Macy’s first book, but it’s in a class with other runaway debuts like Laura Hillenbrand’s “Seabiscuit” and Katherine Boo’s “Behind the Beautiful Forevers”: These nonfiction narratives are more stirring and dramatic than most novels. And Ms. Macy writes so vigorously that she hooks you instantly. You won’t be putting this book down. — Janet Maslin
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